Whips, bullwhips, signal whips, quirts, dog quirts, snake whips, Australian stock whips.
Hand crafted from the finest Kangaroo leather by a craftsman with 35 years experience in the craft of whip plaiting
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  Just a quick word about sharpening this tool and other tools. Before I started plaiting whips I was a butcher by trade so I think I know a little about sharpening  knives , I like to think I do anyway. I have noticed over the years when talking to people about sharpening knives they seem to get a bit carried away. I hear comments like," I spent 2 hours sharpening that knife", when really unless the tool or knife you are trying to sharpen has been run up against a piece of steel and the edge is completely ruined,  it shouldn't take more than a few minutes to put an edge on any knife or tool sharp enough to shave with. I very rarely use an oil stone or an emery wheel on any of my tools or knives. Most of my sharpening is done with a fine butchers steel and a calico buffing wheel that is attached to a 6inch grinder. I use a polishing compound on this which sharpens the blade and puts a very high shine on it allowing it to slide through leather with the greatest of ease. The key to keeping tools sharp is to sharpen them often but little. Most times all I need to do to sharpen a tool is to give it a quick rub on the steel  or the buffing wheel and hey presto. Wherever I can use throw away blades I do. By throw away blades I mean blades that cansciving_small.jpg (122x92 -- 2375 bytes) blades_small.jpg (122x92 -- 1824 bytes)bevel_edges_small.jpg (122x92 -- 2420 bytes) be snapped off to get a new edge, I use these in my lace cutter and injector blades in my skiver and edge beveller. Snap off blades you can get at your hardware store and the injector blades at your nearest Tandy leather store. 

               Over the shot bag and nail we bind on a bolster and before we go any further  we now have to bind with waxed thread the transition between thebind_thread_1_small.jpg (137x103 -- 2172 bytes) handle and the whip. This has to be done three times in all to ensure over time and through constant use that the whip doesn't develop what I call the wet noodle look, that is a sharp bend where the handle and thong join which doesn't make for a very good whip. It is wrapped very tightly and to help me do this I use a piece of wood that I have shaped on a lathe especially for the job but a tool handle will do the job just as well. Thumbnail photos onwind on 1.jpg (60750 bytes)wind on 2.jpg (61327 bytes)pull through cotton 1.jpg (60477 bytes) pull though cotton 2.jpg (62009 bytes) the left just need to be clicked on and you will see a full size photo of how the thread is bound on and how to tie off the end of the thread by pulling it back through itself . Use this same method to wind the thread on the belly.

               Now we plait the first 8 strand belly over the nail and the shot bag or over the 4 plait belly if you are not using a shot bag. Cut your belly out as shown. Over the years I've developed a formula for cutting out the strands of my whips which for me is pretty foolproof and I can apply it to any sort of whip I make but it's based on the turns out from the blade on my strand cutter and therefore will not be much good to anyone else but I'll give measurements. Cut 8 strands 4ft long starting at the thin end,4mm wide and ending      at 4ft 9mm wide. 6 plait belly.jpg (61364 bytes) I use metric measurements I'm afraid.1 Inch =25mm.
             It's a good  idea to bevel the underside edges of your strands and then split them down to an even thickness. I do this with all the strands I use in a whip. It helps keep everything  smooth and hopefully lump free. Plait this up as tightly as you can. There is no such thing as plaiting to tightly when making a whip. When you have finished plaiting your belly roll it under a piece of wood or a piece of flat steel, an old car spring is ideal which is what I use. Roll it well until it is nice and smooth. Next comes the second
2nd binding.jpg (61736 bytes) binding as shown. Now from your second hide cut a bolster that will fit neatly around your belly, I'll rephrase that, around the belly of the whip and the easiest way to hold it in place while you are plaiting I've found is to simply tie it in place with some thin cotton. If you have a splitter it would be a good idea to split the bolster to a thin even thickness and that will stop the whip from getting to thick. With a bullwhip 6ft and over the final thickness of the handle at the butt end should be 1 inch, a smidgen more won't hurt but I always aim for an inch unless asked otherwise.
          
start 8plait belly.jpg (63722 bytes)Trim your second hide now and from this we will cut the second belly. This belly will be  another 8 plait and about 7ft 6inches long when finished. Once again start at the thin end and cut 8 strands 11ft long starting at 4mm and ending at 11mm .finish 8plait belly.jpg (62167 bytes)

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